Balinese Suckling Pig… This is what we were getting our fingers greasy on, during a pre-Monsoon storm at a villa in Legian, when I asked Elisa to marry me. Fiery hot pork and bad weather – no better way to get engaged, yes?
Although better known by its Indonesian name, Babi Guling, this suckling pig specialty of Bali is more correctly called Guling Celeng. Suckling pig isn’t so hard to get around the states, but it usually calls for a special order at the meat market. I normally use rib roasts (sirloin end and not center cuts – to dry) and occasionally shoulder/picnic roasts. Shoulders have the benefit of skin for crisping and eating as part of the magic. Rib roasts have ribs and those don’t suck at all. Of course, whole baby hogs have all that and are wildly tender. This recipe for one little pig will cover two roasts. If you go with the roasts make pocket cuts deep into the meat, close to the bones, to pack the spice stuffing.
One more note – if using a roast, rather than a suckling pig, drop the cooking temp down to about 375°F and add 45 minutes to an hour to cooking time. If you have a large charcoal grill cook it there. If you have a rotisserie on that charcoal grill you are stylin’. If your big ass rotisserie grill is fueled by dried coconut husks then you are in the Naruta of grillin’ sweetness. Or you can cook it on a gas grill or in the oven and still love what eventually lands in your mouth.
Guling Celeng
1 suckling pig (in the ballpark of 15 lbs)
2 tbs. salt
10 shallots peeled & sliced
6 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed and sliced
2 inches ginger, peeled & chopped
15 candlenuts (kemiri), crushed & chopped (sub 25 Macadamia nuts)
4 inches fresh turmeric**, peeled & chopped (sub 4 tsp. dry, ground turmeric)
2 inches laos (aka galangal), peeled, sliced and finely chopped**(sub ginger)
30 bird’s eye or Thai chiles, sliced
1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, roasted (wrap in foil, sear in hot pan 2 min/side)
(sub 1 tsp. Thai Fish Sauce)
2 tbs. coriander seeds, roasted in hot pan till fragrant & crushed
10 stalks lemongrass, bottom four inches only – tough outer leaves
removed & finely sliced
1 tbs. black peppercorns, crushed
1 tbs ground or fresh grated nutmeg
1 tsp. ground cloves
5 Kaffir lime leaves**, very finely sliced
2 salam leaves (hard to find except via internet – no substitution so omit)
3 tbs. oil
*hard to come by, sometimes available in pan-Asian markets. Can be ordered on the web, but just as easily subbed by its smaller cousins, Macadamia nuts
** not so difficult to find in Chinese/Asian markets. Can be bought fresh at various times, but often found cryopacked in the freezer section.
- Season pig inside & out w/ salt. Combine all ingredients, mix well and stuff inside of pig with this mixture. Reserve a little to rub over outside of pig to make it yellow and shiny.
- Close belly with string or with a long skewer. Let sit for at least 30 minutes up to an overnight stint in the fridge.
- Put pig on rotisserie, on the grill or in the oven at 425°F. Cook for an hour or so, until it hits 160° in the deep part of its thigh. Remove from heat and rest it for 10 minutes before serving
- Remove skin w/ sharp knife, slice off meat. Scoop out spice stuffing and place a spoonful on each plate topped by meat and skin.
- Eat with white rice and cold beers.
